Post category: How to grow

 

Although french beans are widely grown in Irish vegetable gardens, runner beans have never really caught on in the same way. Perhaps the requirement to raise the plants indoors and later to find bean poles to support the bean plants was too much trouble or, more likely, the results were not as good as expected. The runner bean, Phaseolus coccineus, is native to Mexico, growing as a scrambling climbers in scrubby land in mountainous parts  where the summer temperatures are not excessive.

It is a perennial, producing large fleshy tubers at the roots, much like dahlias, but it is almost always grown as an annual, the seeds sown in spring. But it is possible to lift the tuberous roots, overwinter them in a frost-free place, as for dahlias, and plant them out the following May. This might be done as a curiosity because the young plants from seed usually possess more vigour. In some countries, runner beans are grown primarily for their flowers and seasonal shade value.

Runner beans can be finicky to grow. The plants can be slow to start growing in cool weather in early June and if they get a set-back they take a while to recover. They respond badly to cold weather, the flowers ‘running off’ without setting, and also to hot, dry weather, when the same problem occurs. However, when runner beans get the right conditions, embarrassing large quantities of beans can be produced – a freezerful!

 

Cooking runner beans

 

Runners can be used in a variety of ways – much as other kinds of green bean. Unless used very young, which is possible, they are generally too hard and crunchy to use fresh, so they are generally cooked, sliced up, by boiling or steaming for as short a time as necessary to cook them through but still leave them reasonably crisp. The cooked beans can be used cold in salads, added late to casseroles and stews, in risotto, re-heated with oil and garlic on a pan, and in myriad other ways. Runner beans are a good source of folic acid, vitamin A and vitamin C and also provide fair amounts of iron as well as dietary fibre.

 

Growing runner beans

 

Site and soil

 

The site needs to be warm, sheltered and sunny and the soil must be deep, rich and very fertile with lots of humus. Runner beans are very fast growers.

 

Varieties

 

 The old standard, still grown, is ‘Scarlet Runner’. ‘Polestar’ is a newer variety, stringless and quick to mature. ‘Red Rum’ is even newer and supposed to be even more reliable. ‘Hestia’ is a dwarf kind, which does not climb and needs no support. There is no advantage in white-flowered varieties and ‘Mergoles’ is a good example.

 

Sowing

 

Runner beans are generally sown in a greenhouse in April and grown on into two-litre pots. The seeds can also be sown outdoors in May but usually do not do as well, especially in a poor summer.

 

Support

 

Runner beans are climbers and need the support of strong canes or bean poles made into wigwam of some sort, in a row or in a circle. Space the poles about thirty to forty centimetres apart.

 

Planting

 

 The young plants, usually about thirty to forty centimetres tall, are planted out in late May of early June, ideally in moist, warm weather. Delay if it is cold. Plant one or two plants at the base of each pole, tying the stems lightly until they start to climb. Water after planting.

 

Watering

 

Water runner beans during any dry spell of more than a few days.

 

Harvesting

 

Pick the beans as soon as they as big enough, the first when only finger-length if you wish. Regular picking keeps the plants flowering. If some bean pods begin to mature, the plant divert resources to the developing seeds at the expense of flowers and new pods.

 

Troubles

 

Generally, runner beans are trouble-free, the main problem being ‘running off’ of flowers and failure to set pods. This problem, which is largely weather-related, can be lessened by providing the right site and soil conditions.

 

A vegetable that is eaten like a fruit, usually with added sugar to temper its acidity, rhubarb is making a return to popularity with contemporary chefs who appreciate its clean, tart flavour. If you are planning to grow rhubarb, now is the time to plant, or if you already have plants, you could consider starting to force some this month for early supplies this spring.

 

Site and soil

 

Rhubarb needs rich fertile soil, well-drained and well supplied with organic material. Although that is the ideal, it grows well in almost any soil that is not water-logged or very dry in summer. Water-logging causes the thick fleshy roots to rot and very dry conditions cause the plant to wilt in hot weather and grow very poorly. The other major requirement is full sunshine. Rhubarb does very badly in shade. Quite often, because it remains so long in the ground, the branches of neighbouring trees grow out over the spot where the rhubarb is growing and the roots invade their root space. The combination of overhead shading and root competition can greatly weaken the rhubarb and even kill it.

 

Varieties

 

There are lots of varieties of rhubarb but very few of them are widely grown. The crop was very popular in the nineteenth century and many varieties were named then, some of them are still around. The plant is a hybrid of two or more species and has been grown for thousands of years in China where its roots were used as a powerful laxative. It was first brought to Europe as a medicinal plant. The practice of eating the leaf stalks began in France but was quickly taken up across Europe. The main variety used is ‘Timperley Early’, an early-sprouting variety with red stalks and green flesh. Other varieties offered include ‘Victoria’ and an early form called ‘Early Victoria’. A batch of varieties carrying the names ‘Champagne’, ‘Hawke’s Champagne’ or ‘Red Champagne’ are similar with red stems and a flavour described as ‘winey’.

 

Sowing and propagation

 

Rhubarb can be raised from seeds, which is erratically offered by seed companies, or from collected seeds. Most plants flower and set some seeds and these can be gathered and sown fresh. The resulting plants are unlikely to be much better than the parent and the easier way to propagate plants is to split an existing plant, or ‘stool’. Any piece of the crown that carries a bud will give rise to a new plant, but it is best to have two or three buds on a piece for planting as it will give a crop sooner.

 

Planting

 

Planting is normally done when the plant is dormant in winter, or in growth from pots. The ground for rhubarb should be dug over incorporating some well-rotted manure or compost. Make sure to remove all perennial weeds and ensure there is enough space for the plants to grow. Each stool needs about 1.5 metres from the next or from other plants such as fruit bushes. The usual recommendation of 90 centimetres or one metre is too close. When planting dig out a wide hole to 60 centimetres or more and fill the bottom of the hole with well-rotted organic material and mix it with the soil. Then plant on the slightly raised mound. Water after planting, even in winter, to settle the soil around the roots. One or two plants is usually enough for most households and a single plant can be planted in a flower border if necessary.

 

Aftercare

 

Rhubarb needs very little effort to maintain. Weed control must be kept up although it suppresses weeds well when the leaves are present. Feeding can be carried out in winter with a thick layer of organic material, farm yard manure was the traditional dressing applied. A layer of grass mowings, applied fresh in summer, acts to keep weeds down, retains moisture in the soil and rots down to feed the plants. Water can be given during drought spells but the plants will usually stop growing in any case and the main season for using rhubarb will have passed.

 

Picking

 

Usually the plants are given a year to establish before picking the first leaves. In subsequent years, the leaf stalks can be picked when they are as small as pencil length, early in the season. Later they will grow out to full size. The method of picking is to hold the leaf stalk firmly down near the base and with a firm tug pull the leaf out of the crown. Cut the leaves off and leave them on the soil surface near the plants or on the compost heap.

 

Blanching and forcing

 

Rhubarb can be blanched to produce stalks with red colour. This is done by covering with any light-excluding material, traditionally a layer of straw, or a large pot or container, and special rhubarb pots are available. These are decorative in themselves, especially at time of year when the vegetable garden is bare. The pots can be placed over the plants in late December or early January when they have had some frost.

Forcing the plants in a greenhouse or indoors can bring early supplies of bright red stems. The crown, or part of a large crown, is lifted and placed in a black plastic bag, which can be used for rubbish subsequently, and brought into a relatively warm place. Growth begins quite quickly and in a couple of months long stems are produced. The forced crowns are usually discarded but they will recover if planted outdoors.

 

Pests and diseases

 

Rhubarb is resistant to most pests, containing high amounts of poisonous oxalate in the leaves. It can be affected by honey fungus and verticillium wilt. When affected by these diseases, the crowns grow poorly and wilt easily. Crown rotting can occur when the ground is heavy and wet.

 

By no stretch of the imagination could radish be considered a significant vegetable of Irish gardens, let alone a major one, but it still has an honoured place with people who are fond of its crunchy peppery flavour. The hot taste comes from chemicals that are similar to those contained in mustard and to a lesser extent in turnips, both of which are relatives of the radish, along with the rest of the cabbage family. The name radish comes from the latin ‘radix’ meaning ‘root’, which is apt.

Radish has the distinction of being the fastest developing outdoor vegetable. In just six to eight weeks from sowing, the first radishes can be eaten, the variation depends on the weather. For the same reasons of speedy results, radishes have always been popular for encouraging an interest in gardening with children. The large seeds of the radish also make it ideal for little fingers, and the self-same large seeds partly explain the speed of growth, quickly making a strong seedling.

The radish has a long history of cultivation, first with black-skinned, carrot-shaped kinds in the eastern Mediterranean region, and later with white-skinned kinds and finally the red-skinned kinds with which we are most familiar about two hundred years ago. There are also green and yellow-skinned kinds.

 

Cooking radishes

 

Radishes are a good source of Vitamin C, dietary fibre and, in common with most fresh vegetables, contain anti-cancer flavonoids. The oriental radish kinds are even better as they also contain valuable levels of potassium, magnesium and folate. Radishes are generally considered as a salad vegetable eaten fresh, but they can be cooked, especially the oriental and winter kinds which are cooked like turnips, good in stir fries, stews and soups.

 

Growing radishes

 

Varieties

 

The familiar varieties of radish are the red-skinned, white-fleshed small salad radishes. Most varieties are round in shape, such as ‘Scarlet Globe’, though some are pointed, such as ‘French  Breakfast’. There are white varieties, such as ‘White Icicle’, used young and eaten raw. And there are white winter radishes which are eaten fresh or cooked and impart a nice peppery crunchy flavour. White winter kinds are usually called ‘mooli’, such as ‘Mino Early’, and they originated in Japan. There are red-fleshed winter kinds from China, such as ‘Mantanghong’.

 

Sowing

 

Radishes can be sown early, as soon as the ground conditions allow, usually in March. Because they develop so quickly, repeat sowings will be essential if a continuous supply is required. It is best to sow just a few seeds at a time. Sowing can continue into late summer, and the winter kinds are sown in July for winter use.

 

Site and soil

 

Being a quick-growing crop, radishes needs full open sunshine and good soil conditions. It was originally probably a seaside plant and it still likes light, open soil, fertile but not too rich. If the soil is too rich the centre of the radishes can be soft.  

 

Weeding and watering

 

Be sure to control weeds as soon as the radish seedlings appear above ground, which can be within a few days of sowing. Watering may be needed, especially in summer, because drought and heat can cause ‘bolting’.

 

Harvesting

 

Radishes should be used as soon as they are big enough, because they will come in a rush. The winter kinds stand outdoors except in a sharp frost and can be used as needed. Radish is a member of the cabbage family and can suffer form cabbage root flies, especially crops standing outdoors and this factor should be watched.

 

Radicchio is the red form of salad chicory. This salad vegetable is a form of chicory and like chicory can be forced for use as a winter salad, but the leaves can also be used fresh, without forcing. Young plants are green but when mature the plants are bright red with prominent white veins and a small well turned-in heart. It has become very popular as an addition to the winter salad bowl though too bitter, I think, to eat on its own. It can also be lightly cooked.

It can be tricky to grow especially in the colder parts of the country, as it is not frost hardy. Therefore in such areas grow it under protection, either glass cloches, cold frames or walk-in tunnels but not low plastic tunnels as they tend to hold too much dampness and this can lead to rotting of the heads.

The timing of sowing is also important as if sown too early the plants will bolt and if too late they will not be big enough to withstand the winter. Your best bet is to try sowing from early to mid-July and see which gives the best results in your garden.

Chose a warm position in the garden for this crop and one where the soil stays dry in winter. The area should be sheltered but not so sheltered that is stays damp and close and thus the crops grown there are more prone to disease. Since this is a salad crop it does not need a very rich soil, if the area was fertilised for a previous crop that should be enough but if in doubt give a light dressing before sowing.

There are very few varieties available, the only one in most shops being ‘Palla Rossa Bella’, but try any other you can get. Sow as thinly as possible in rows 45 cms apart and when the seedlings are large enough to handle thin to 30 to 40 cms in the row. Alternatively you can sow a few seeds in bunches spaced at 30 to 40 cms along the row and then thin the bunches to one plant later.

Firm in the seeds with the back of the rake and if the weather remains dry, water the sown area lightly with a very fine rose on your can. Heavy watering using coarse drops will tend to cause a ‘panned’ surface on any but the sandiest soils and this can interfere with the emergence of the seedlings.

After that all that is needed is to keep the crop free of weeds and watered in dry weather. As the autumn approaches if watering is needed, try to do it early in the day so as not to let the crop go into the night wet, as this can encourage rotting and disease.

Depending on the locality, it may be after Christmas before the plants have fully developed both their colour and shape. So the best advice is to leave the crop to grow until it has developed its full colour and is well hearted no matter how long it takes.

 

Pumpkins are more used for Halloween decoration than for eating, and winter squashes are hardly known at all for this purpose. But they are an interesting and tasty addition to the standard range of vegetables and offer many uses in cookery. Winter squashes, and pumpkins are quite easy to grow and need no great expertise for success.

Pumpkins and winter squashes, or storage squashes, differ from summer squashes in that they can be stored for use. The summer squashes are best used soon after picking, like courgettes or marrows. The two groups are derived from different parent species. The groups are grown somewhat differently as the objective is to get the pumpkins and winter squashes to ripen fully.

 

Site and soil

 

Pumpkins and, to a lesser extent, winter squashes are very heavy-feeding plants. They grow extremely quickly and use large amounts of nutrients and water in the process. Failure to provide the right conditions results in poor size, low yields or even failure to crop. The ideal site is fully open to sunshine with good shelter to improve air temperature levels, but some air movement is necessary. The soil should be very rich, well supplied with well-rotted organic material. The soil should retain moisture but have a light open structure.

 

Varieties

 

There are lots of varieties to choose from. ‘Hundredweight’ is a popular large-growing pumpkin, or for a monster try ‘Dill’s Atlantic Giant’. ‘Becky’ is a neat small-sized pumpkin, perfect for Halloween carving and cooking. The blue pumpkin ‘Crown Prince’ is greyish-blue, small and good for storage and eating. The winter squashes offer a tremendous range fo varieties. There are many kinds, such as turban squash, acorn squash, banana squash, butternut and hubbard squash. ‘Butternut’ has marrow-like stripes. ‘Cobnut’ is a butternut type, pale orange in colour and shaped like a bottle gourd. ‘Harrier’ is similar. ‘Celebration Mixed’ is a mix of acorn types, so-called because of their shape. ‘Jaspee de Vendée’ is almost round, melon-shaped and is sweet enough to be eaten raw, like a melon. While ‘Turk’s Turban’ is often grown for its decorative red, green and cream striping, it can be cooked. There are many other kinds to try.

 

Sowing

 

Pumpkins and winter squashes are sown in late April or early May, under protection, in a greenhouse, conservatory or window sill indoors. These plants cannot tolerate frost. The seeds can be sown directly where they are to grow outdoors in the second half of May, but the four or five weeks indoors gives them a head-start going into the short Irish summer. Sow one seed, on its edge, in a good-sized pot to avoid potting on. Be careful not to over-water at sowing as wet, airless compost can cause the seed to rot. Allow the compost to dry a little before watering, but do not delay watering.

 

Planting out

 

Harden off the seedlings towards the end of May or early June and plant outside after a few days of warm weather. The planting site can have been prepared earlier, digging in lots of well-rotted compost or manure. Some general fertilizer can be incorporated at that stage too. Set the plant on a slight mound with the top of the compost rootball about two centimetres out of the soil. Make a little moat around the mound, about 25 centimetres from the plant to allow for watering later. If the plant is a bit floppy, a light cane can be used to secure it against wind damage.

 

Aftercare

 

Allow the plant to settle and do not water until it has hardened off fully and settled. A liquid feed at that stage is useful in getting the plant growing out into the surrounding soil. If the weather is a little dull or cool, the plant often ‘sits’ and does not grow, but this can change rapidly when a warm spell comes. Watch for slug and snail damage.

When the plant begins to grow, it will grow rapidly. Flowers will be produced but the plant will not set these if it is growing well. There is no need for concern about pollination as bees and flies will carry this out and the plant itself will set fruit when the time is right. The plant may throw out many long shoots and cover several square metres. If you want a big pumpkin, wait until it is evident which fruit is going to be biggest – it will be the one that is growing fastest, not always the first to form – and take off the others.

 

Picking

 

Allow the pumpkins and squashes to continue to ripen into October, when they will start to colour. Taken off the plant and placed in a warm place, such as a greenhouse, the colour will develop in the last couple of weeks before Halloween. Stored fruits continue to develop colour in storage and they can be cooked over many months. Hard frost can damage the fruit, but this is rare as early as October, but they can be damaged in storage too.

 

Troubles

 

Generally trouble-free, but watch for snails. Sometimes greenflies attack too. Mildew is the main disease trouble but rich ground and watering will keep that at bay and many plants show a touch of mildew late on without much effect.

 

Growing your own potatoes is remarkably satisfying and not all that much trouble. It is most important not to take on too much. So often, people plant too many rows and it is too much effort. Set an easily achievable target. Choose early varieties that can be eaten fresh from the soil during the summer when the ground is dry, and do not need to be stored. Early varieties suffer less from pests and diseases, usually being used before blight or slug damage becomes a problem. But there are newer varieties available too that are disease and pest resistant and make potato growing much more successful.

 

Site and soil

 

Choose an area in full open sunshine, with good air movement but not too windy or exposed either. An enclosed area tends to hold damp air which increases disease while an over-exposed garden tends to be chilled and growth is reduced.

The soil should be deep and fertile and free of perennial weeds, such as scutch grass, thistles or docks. It should have plenty of organic material but too much can lead to an increase in the slug population. Traditionally, farm yard manure was used for potatoes and garden compost can be good too, but it is usually necessary to apply some general fertiliser too at 50 to 100g per square metre.

 

Varieties

 

The classic choice was the first early ‘Home Guard’ followed by second early ‘British Queen’, then early maincrop ‘Kerr’s Pink’ up to the year-end or so and ‘Golden Wonder’ to store all the way to June again. All of these varieties are still good, along with other old and valued varieties, such as earlies ‘Sharpe’s Express’ and ‘Duke of York’ and early maincrop ‘Romano’, ‘King Edward’ and ‘Record’. There are other varieties that have become available, recently or relatively recently, such as the earlies ‘Lady Cristl’, ‘Colleen’, ‘Orla’, early maincrop  ‘Maris Piper’ and ‘Pentland Dell’ and ‘Sante’ and maincrop ‘Cara’, ‘Rooster’, ‘Druid’ and ‘Valor’. Some of these show good pest and disease resistance, such as ‘Lady Cristl’, ‘Orla’, ‘Sante’, ‘Cara’, ‘Druid’ and ‘Valor’ as well as the very blight resistant early maincrop, ‘Sarpo Mira’ and maincrop ‘Sarpo Axona’. ‘Sante’ and ‘Valor’ are notably eelworm resistant, carrying resistance to both kinds of eelworms.

 

Planting

 

Especially with first earlies, it is worth sprouting the potatoes before planting as this brings harvest as much as three weeks earlier. Sprouting is done by standing the tubers one-deep in shallow trays in a greenhouse or conservatory with good light. If this is done in January, the potatoes can be planted in February in mild areas to crop as early as June. This is possible in a mild garden with light soil. Later planting means later harvest but planting depends on the soil. If it is dry enough to cultivate, planting can be carried out. Very early planted potatoes run the risk of frost damage to the foliage so the earliest crops can only be grown in mild areas, or covered with horticultural fleece.

Maincrops can be planted in March, April or May. While the earlies can be planted at 30cm apart in rows spaced 50cm apart, the main crop varieties need more space, planting at 40 cm apart in rows 75cm apart. Plant first earlies by trowel, so as not to have to move much soil, but maincrop by making drills.

The basic bag of seed potatoes is 3kg and this contains about 40 potatoes, enough for about twelve to fifteen metres of row. This will yield about 20kg of early potatoes and about double that of maincrop varieties. If you choose an early variety and plant only one bag, you will not have lot of work.

 

Aftercare

 

Earlies can have cover with cloches or fleece against frost. Earthing up to prevent greening is likely to be necessary when potatoes are trowel-planted. To earth-up, loosen the soil along the paths between rows with a fork and then shovel it on either side to mound up around the stems when the plants are about 15cm tall.

Watering may be required for earlies and maincrop. Earlies often suffer drought in May and may need one or two heavy waterings with a sprinkler or hose. Main crop potatoes may run short of water in July or August if there is a run of dry weather.

 

Harvesting and storage

 

Earlies can be used as soon as they are large enough, although they can be very ‘soapy’ at this stage. Usually when the plants have flowered or soon after, the early potatoes are ready and this can be as little as 100 days after planting in good weather or 120 days in a dull time. Maincrop varieties are usually left to build their dry matter levels to make them more floury in flavour and store better. The more dry matter the better for storage. But there may be a trade-off with blight damage to the foliage. If blight appears, it is best to take off the foliage to prevent it transferring to the tubers. If tubers are left in the ground too late in autumn, slugs will be more active as soil moist levels increase from September onwards. But this can be monitored. 

Potatoes can be stored in a frost -free shed with an earthen or concrete floor, or in a pit made with straw and covered with soil outdoors. This is made by digging out a base to 10 to 15 centimetres deep in  a well drained place. Straw is put in the base and potatoes piled on top. More straw is put over them and soil from the base is then placed on the straw cover.  Soil from around the edges of the base is also used to pile over the straw. This leaves a trench all around the base and about 20 to 25 cm deep, acting as a drain.The straw protects from frost and the tubers are kept moist by the covering of soil.

 

Pests and diseases

 

Potatoes are prey to quite a range of pests and diseases, but the ones that cause most trouble are potato blight, slugs and eelworms. The other problems should be solved by using only Certified seed potatoes and by not growing immediately after grass. Blight can be prevented by growing blight-resistant varieties or by spraying. Slugs can be reduced by growing early varieties and varieties with some resistance such as ‘Golden Wonder’ and ‘Pentland Dell’. If less organic manure is used, slug damage will not be as great and the eelworm slug-killer Nemaslug can be used – pellets are next to useless against soil-living slugs. Eelworms cause progressive weakening of the crop and are carried over as cysts in the soil.  A long break of five to seven years is required to reduce damage, or choose eelworm-resistant varieties. There are two kinds of eelworm, golden and white according to the colour of the cysts in mid-summer. Both kinds can be present but usually the golden kind favours warmer parts and the white kind more northern areas.

 

 

Traditionally parsnips are sown during the shortest days of the year and can still be harvested more than a year later. While they are not everybody’s favourite vegetable, they are extremely hardy and can be left in the ground until required for use.

The parsnip, Pastinaca sativa, belongs to the Umbelliferae family, the same as carrots, celery and parsley. It makes sense to grow parsnips in fresh ground every year or after potatoes or cabbage or any crop that has been given a good dressing of organic manure.

Parsnips are deep rooted and if long parsnips are required, for the local show, for instance, then the soil must be deep and well drained. Deep digging is essential and while they like a good deal of humus, it should not be applied at the time of seed-sowing because fresh manure can cause forking. Avoid very dry sandy soils and stony soils which tend to produce forked and badly shaped roots.

The seed has to be sown early in the year, in fact much earlier than other crops and long before a good seedbed can be made under normal conditions. Quite often a brief spell of good weather allows a sowing to be made. If weather and soil conditions are suitable in January, then sow parsnip seed. February sowing is better than March, and April sowing is considered too late for a good crop, the roots staying small, but then that might be fine.

The seed is round and flat and is big enough to be handled individually. The life of the seed is short so always ensure that the seed packet is dated for the current year, otherwise germination might not take place. The seed is usually sown in groups of three of four at a spacings of ten to fifteen centimetres. The wider the spacing, the larger the roots will become.

Large-growing varieties like ‘The Student’ and ‘Hollow Crown’ will need more space to develop and the rows should be at least fifty centimetres apart. The seed may be sown ‘on the flat’ or on top of drills. The big advantage of using drills especially on heavy or poorly-drained soils is that it helps drainage and helps to raise soil temperatures, encouraging early germination. The foliage of parsnips grows quite high and though the spacing may appear wasteful it is well worthwhile to give as much space as possible.

Parsnips need to be thinned out, or singled, at an early stage. Seedling parsnips emerge unevenly and irregularly. When sown on flat ground, it is sometimes difficult to identify the leaves of each seedling but as soon as they are big enough to handle – before the development of the first true leaf – they should be spaced to the distances recommended.

The older larger varieties are still preferred by many people but their great disadvantages are that they are very subject to parsnip canker which appears as a rust-coloured rot on the shoulder of the roots and causes severe wastage and damage on the roots later in the year. This is often aggravated by tiny mushroom fly grubs that gain access through the cankered parts.

The more modern varieties which are much smaller but more resistant to rust include, ‘Avonresister’, ‘White Gem’ and ‘Offenham’, but this size is quite handy for home use. Early sown parsnips are usually ready for harvesting from August onwards. Main crops can be harvested right through the autumn and winter and a touch of frost is beneficial, sweetening and improving flavour. Parsnips can be harvested right into spring, even after the tops have sprouted again, but there is a cut-off point because the roots become tough and dry.

Parsnips are susceptible to the ravages of slugs and snails especially in the early spring as they are emerging. If damage is noticed, some control measures will ne necessary. Weeds can be a problem as the crop is slow to emerge and it is a good idea to put down a few quick germinating seeds like radish to mark the location of the rows especially if they are being sown on the flat. The only solution to the canker problem is to grow varieties that are resistant to it such as ‘Avonresister’.

 

In French, the words ‘mange tout’ mean ‘eat the lot’, a good phrase for the sort of peas that is eaten pod and all. Strange that the French name for ‘eat-all’ peas has gained such wide currency, but it is undoubtedly much more elegant. The mange-tout type of peas has been around since at least the sixteenth century when reference was made to pea varieties that do not have hard skins on the inside wall of the pods. That is the difference between mange-tout varieties and the kinds grown for the peas themselves. The very young pods of any variety can be eaten as mange-tout, but the varieties grown as mange-tout are quite separate. The pods are larger, flat and the pea seeds do not fill the pods. There is also the sugar pea, or snap pea, or in America ‘snow pea’, that is also an eat-all kind but these varieties have thick-walled fleshy pods, rounded unlike the flat mange-tout types. While sugar peas or snap peas are mange-tout types, mange-tout is generally taken to refer to the flat kind.

 

Cooking Mange-tout

 

Mange-tout peas are a good food source, providing protein, carbohydrate and fibre as well as being an excellent source of vitamin C and vitamin A. This vegetable can be eaten raw or cooked and it is versatile. It needs little cooking, can be used as a vegetable on its own, and features most in fresh dishes and stir fries.

 

Growing mange-tout

 

Site and soil

 

Like all peas, mange-tout types like an open, sunny position in fertile open soil. The soil is best if not too rich as this causes excessive leafy growth and may affect the fertility of the flowers. Mange-tout varieties are generally taller than the ordinary kinds of peas and would benefit from good shelter.

 

Varieties

 

The most widely grown mange-tout variety is ‘Oregon Sugar Pod’, a fairly tall variety. ‘Delicata’ is smaller with good disease resistance. ‘Dwarf Sweet Green’ is low and quick to crop. There are lots of sugar pea varieties, such as ‘Sugar Bon’, a low grower and early cropper, ‘Sugar Snap’ is a head-high grower that is a good cropper but needs good support. ‘Delikett’ is an exceptionally sweet sugar snap type.

 

Sowing

 

Mangetout varieties can be sown from March to June, like other pea varieties. Simply scatter them along a row and cover. The size of the pea vines and their support should be taken into account in choosing the sowing position.

 

Weed and watering

 

Control all weeds near the young pea plants and water if necessary during dry spells – the young plants need to be kept growing steadily.

 

Picking

 

Begin using mangetout peas as soon as they are big enough, about five or six centimetres even, because the main crop of pods will all come very quickly.

 

Troubles

 

Mange-tout varieties suffer the general run of pea diseases, but these are not usually very troublesome. The young plants can suffer from attacks by pigeons, pea weevils and slugs so keep a watch for damage.

 

Lettuce has a long history of cultivation going back, it is thought, to at least ancient Egyptian times. The cultivated lettuce varieties were derived from a wild lettuce species that grows across continental Europe and the Middle East. Resembling the wild sow thistle weed of gardens, the wild lettuce was apparently very bitter and had to be blanched prior to eating, much as seakale still is. Centuries of breeding changed the lettuce, making it more palatable and more leafy.

The wide range of varieties includes five kinds: ordinary butterhead types, looseleaf types, iceberg or crisp varieties from North America, cos lettuce from eastern Europe and Chinese stem lettuce. In addition there are many variations on these types – red kinds, frilly edged kinds, oak-leaved kinds. Each sort has its own merits and each kind appeals to different palettes.

The butterhead and looseleaf kinds are easiest to grow, the crisp and cos kinds slower to develop and needing better conditions. Butterhead kinds can be grown all year round, the winter crops with the protection of a cloche or greenhouse. Only very keen growers will attempt year-round production but most people could easily produce a couple of summer crops.

 

Cooking lettuce

 

The nutritional value of lettuce varies with the variety: looseleaf and cos types have about double the value of iceberg. It has small amounts of dietary fibre, some carbohydrates, a little protein and a trace of fat. Its most important nutrients are vitamin A – the greener, the better – and potassium and a moderately good source of vitamin C, calcium, iron and copper, and it is 95% water. Lettuce is mostly eaten fresh in salads and sandwiches but it can feature in cooked dishes too.

 

Growing lettuce

 

Site and soil

 

Lettuce is a quick-growing, soft crop that needs good growing conditions at all times. The site should be open to full sunshine, not shaded. Some shelter is useful though because temperature levels will be higher and this is an advantage early and late in the year. The soil needs to be rich, well drained with plenty of humus.

 

Varieties

 

There are dozens, scores, of lettuce varieties. Some standards include: ‘Webb’s Wonderful'(crisphead), ‘All The Year Round’ (butterhead), ‘Salad Bowl’ (looseleaf), ‘Celtuce’ (chinese lettuce), ‘Lobjoit’s Green’ (cos).

 

Sowing

 

Lettuce can be sown almost year-round, choosing suitable varieties for the season. The fancier kinds, cos and iceberg kinds are effectively restricted to summer growing because they need warm weather and bright light.

 

Picking

 

Lettuce is normally used as ‘hearted’ lettuces, cut just above soil level, but it can be used from the garden at any time, especially the looseleaf types that can have leaves picked off without cutting the stem. Even thinnings can be used.

 

Troubles

 

Lettuce mainly suffers form greenfly infestation and this need to be watched. Wilting, early bolting and scorching at the edges of the leaves are caused by unsuitable growing conditions, mainly too hot or dry. Grey mould can cause damage in cool, damp conditions.

 

The leek has been prized by gourmets for thousands of years. The Roman emperor Nero believed leeks would improve his singing!

Related to garlic and onions, the flavour of the leek is milder and more subtle. Its flavour gently permeates other food without overpowering the flavours. The structure of the plant contains soft fibre and can be used to add body to other foods. Leeks can be cooked whole as a hot vegetable on its own, or chopped and used in salads, soups and a multitude of other dishes.

Leeks are one of the easiest vegetables to grow, absolutely reliable and trouble-free. They need good rich soil to grow well and produce succulent stems and leaves. The ideal place to grow them is in ground that grew potatoes last year – rich and fertile, and nicely loosened by the questing roots of the potato plants.

But it is not even necessary to have a vegetable garden to grow leeks; there is no reason why they could not be grown in a small group among flowers in a flower border, where their strikingly pointed  leaves would have a textural quality, and their sea-green colour would be a nice complement to orange, blue or yellow flowers. But take care to choose neighbouring plants that do not grow too tall, because the leek plants need sunshine.

Like the other onion family members, leeks have medicinal value. Eating half a raw leek a day is reputed to ward off blood clotting, and help to fight asthma, chronic bronchitis, hay fever and diabetes.

 

The swollen stems of kohlrabi are not at all familiar either as a garden vegetable or in shops, but it is a very easy vegetable to grow, versatile to cook and pleasantly flavoured. It is a member of the cabbage family, in effect it is a cabbage with a much-thickened stem as opposed to a turnip which has a thickened root. The name is derived from ‘kohl’, the german for cabbage and the word for turnip, ‘rabi’, in other words ‘cabbage turnip’ which aptly describes it.

This vegetable originated in northern Europe in the Middle Ages but it has spread to other countries across the world and it is widely grown in Asia, coping well with warm weather. Under natural conditions, the swollen stem would act as a storage organ, carrying the plant over one winter and into its second flowering and seeding year. In the garden, the stem bases are harvested while still quite small and succulent.

It tends to go over-mature quite quickly and needs to be treated in the same way as its relatives, the radish and the white turnip, both of which get too mature quickly also. It needs no special soil and it is quite reliable under our conditions of climate. It has a sweet turnip-like flavour, but much more delicate and not as hot as turnips can be. It is crunchy when raw but not as hard as turnip. It can be cooked sliced up like turnips, grated like carrots, even the whole bulb cooked when small.

 

Cooking kohlrabi

 

Kohlrabi can be used is a range of ways in the kitchen, similar to turnips. Peeled if necessary to remove the outer skin, it can be boiled or stir-fried in strips, grated for salads or eaten raw like carrots. Kohlrabi is very low in saturated fat and cholesterol, a very good source of dietary fibre, vitamin C, vitamin B6, potassium, copper and manganese. It also contains a series of plant compounds called indoles, which are considered to be valuable natural anti-cancer agents, present in other cabbage-family plants also and not destroyed by cooking.

 

Growing kohlrabi

 

Site and soil

 

Kohlrabi is a fast developing crop, ready in about eight to twelve weeks from sowing depending on the time of year and the weather. It needs open soil, rich and fertile and a warm sunny position. It tends to go to seed if the weather is cold in spring.

 

Sowing

 

Because it matures rapidly and can become over-mature quite quickly, kohlrabi needs to be sown at intervals through the spring and summer, like radish. Begin in late March and sow a last batch in early August. Sow the seeds in batches of about five where they are to mature. Just a short row is all that need be sown at one time, spacing the sowing stations about twenty centimetres apart and the rows about thirty centimetres apart, or the same distance from other vegetables. The seeds can be sown more closely to give ‘baby’ vegetables, picked small.

 

Varieties

 

The usual varieties are ‘White Vienna’ and ‘Purple Vienna’ but there are newer kinds such as ‘Lanro’, white; ‘Blusta’, purple and ‘Quickstar’, white which is recommended for an early sowing in a greenhouse or cold frame.

 

Thinning

 

 The seedlings should be thinned in two stages to one plant per station. Thinning down to two first and then removing one a week or so later. It is best not to thin down to one seedling immediately in case it is damaged by the thinning or by a snail or pigeon.

 

Watering

 

Although kohlrabi is quite tolerant of dry soil, better results are achieved if the plants are watered during dry weather.

 

Picking

 

The little roots can be used at any size, baby size like small beets or larger like garden turnips but generally before they reach the size of a tennis ball because they have  tendency to goo woody and fibrous, although this fibre is mostly just below the skin and the stem centre remains crisp.

 

Storage

 

Just like turnips, and hard-headed cabbage, kohlrabi can be stored into the winter months in a pit, or similar storage, or simply left in the ground although these have a tendency to go woody.

 

Troubles

 

As a member of the cabbage family, the kohlrabi is subject to the usual cabbage family pests, notably cabbage root flies and caterpillars. While the caterpillars damage the leaves, the ‘roots’ are perfectly fine to use. It can also suffer clubroot on acidic soils.

 

Kale is the quintessential ‘hungry gap’ vegetable, a tough member of the cabbage family that could be depended on to survive the rigours of winter cold and provide ‘greens’ for eating in spring. While the imperative that encouraged hardy cottage-gardeners to grow this vegetable is not with us any more, kale is still a good garden vegetable.

It is very easy to grow and takes up ground during the slack time of year when there is little pressure on space. And it is one of the most nutritious garden vegetables. It can be used in all the ways cabbage is used, although it takes longer to cook. The trick is to use the central part of the head, which is more tender, and the removal of the head encourages tasty side-shoots to develop.

Kale is commonly used in Mediterranean countries, especially Portugal and Italy, often in dishes with potatoes and garlic sausage. The variety illustrated is the Italian variety, ‘Nero de Toscana’, also known as ‘Black Tuscany’, which can have leaves picked off when they are large enough and can be used in salads to give ‘bite’ or can be cooked. It overwinters well, though the more usual green curled kale varieties are probably hardier.

 

Cooking kale

 

Kale is very nutritious, an excellent source of Vitamins A, B, C and E. It also contains the minerals calcium, iron and phosphorus. The older leaves can be quite strong, so the young leaves and central head should be used. The side-shoots that develop in spring are full of flavour. It needs a long simmer and it is best used to add flavour to other ingredients.

 

Growing kale

 

Soil

 

Kale will grow in any soil, but ideally use ground that was fertilized for a previous crop. It is usually planted, just like spring cabbage, in ground left vacant by early potatoes.

 

Varieties

 

The seed companies offer a range of varieties but mostly of the green curly type, such as ‘Dwarf Green Curled’. There are newer varieties, such as ‘Starbor’, which is a cut-and-come-again type. There are red varieties, such as ‘Garna Red’ or ‘Redbor’, and there is ‘Nero de Toscana’, dark green and decorative.

 

Sowing

 

The seeds are sown in a seedbed outdoors in April or May, the later date in milder parts of the country. The seedlings are thinned to allow the remainder to develop into nice storng plants for planting out in August or September.

 

Transplanting

 

 Ground after early potatoes is ideal, and it is best not to dig or soften the soil. Plant directly into the firm soil – the plant stands up well to winter gales in firm soil.

 

Harvesting

 

Leaves can be picked off for use in salads or allow the loose head to form. Pciking after frost makes the kale sweeter and the side-shoots can be used as they make adequate size.

 

The Jerusalem artichoke is not truly an artichoke and has nothing to do with Jerusalem. The common name is derived instead from the Italian word for sunflower, ‘girasole’, which means ‘turn to the sun’. Unlike its well-known relative the giant sunflower, which is an annual plant and lasts only one season, the tuberous sunflower, Helianthus tuberosus, stores up food in its tubers to carry it through winter.

There are not many fresh vegetables from the garden in the winter months and the Jerusalem artichoke can make a pleasant change to the usual fare. It is also a very easy vegetable to grow. The small tubers are kept back for planting each spring in good, fertile soil in an open sunny position.

The stems rise very quickly when the weather warms up in early summer and tower over head-height when well grown. Occasionally the plant is used as a temporary shelter screen for other vegetables.

 

Cooking Jerusalem Artichokes

 

The white flesh of the Jerusalem artichoke tubers is nutty, sweet and crunchy. Like potatoes, the artichoke tubers make satisfying winter dishes, using the stored goodness of the plant but in this case the main carbohydrate stored is inulin, not starch, and reputedly this makes the Jerusalem a good food for diabetics.

The Jerusalem artichoke is available to buy from about October to March, but from fresh from the garden over a longer period. It is also a good source of iron, the skin is very thin and quite nutritious. They can be eaten raw in salads or cooked by boiling or steaming.

 

Growing Jerusalem Artichokes

 

Varieties

 

Jerusalem artichokes are rarely sold as named varieties and essentially there are two kinds. The most common, white-skinned kind is ‘Silver Skinned’ and there are purple-skinned kinds too, notably one called ‘Fuseau’.

 

Planting

 

This is a sun-lover and an open area in full sunshine with good fertile soil is required. The soil should be open and well-drained, not heavy or inclined to be wet. In March when the soil is workable, plant the tubers about 7 cm deep and 30 cm apart in a row. If more than one row is required, they could be spaced about 60cm apart.

 

Weeding

 

Maintain good weed control by hoeing and hand-weeding until the shoots are growing strongly.

 

Watering

 

Watering is not usually necessary, but might be considered in a dry spell and on light soil.

 

Feeding

 

Jerusalem artichokes like rich feeding but a lot of organic manure encourages slugs, as it does for potatoes, and it is better to use a high-potash general fertiliser, or vegetable fertiliser, if there is a risk of slug damage, especially on heavy ground.

 

Harvesting

 

The tubers are best left in the ground until needed because of their thin skins, but can be lifted and stored if a cool, damp atmosphere can be created. Lifting in October might become essential to avoid slug attack. The tubers can be left in the ground from year to year but they spread outwards slowly and the tubers tend to be small and fiddly if left on.

 

Green broccoli is a relatively new crop – the older books barely mention it or do not mention it at all. But in recent decades it has become a popular vegetable. It is very nutritious with good supplies of vitamins and anti-oxidants and it is versatile in cookery, being used as a hot vegetable, steamed or stir-fried, and raw or par-boiled cold in salads.

There is some confusion about the name green broccoli, correctly it is called calabrese. That name is derived from the region of Calabria, the ‘toe’ of Italy where this crop originated. It was probably Italian influence on American cookery that expanded interest in this vegetable. Incidentally, the word broccoli means ‘little buds’, in this case the massed flower buds of the plant, which is the part that is eaten.

 

Site and soil

 

Green broccoli is a very fast-maturing crop and is best planted in a light, open but fertile soil. The soil can be quite rich and following on potatoes should be ideal. The soil should be dug over and loosened before planting, well cultivated, but not firmed as is the case with many other cabbage family vegetables. It needs to root deeply very quickly. It likes warmth early its growth and a space in full sunshine and good shelter should be chosen if possible. But it should not be overly sheltered either.

 

Varieties

 

There is a range of varieties available from the seed houses, some are earlier to crop and others take a little longer. ‘Lucky’ is early and small-growing and can be spaced accordingly. ‘Arcadia’ has tight heads, quick-maturing and very reliable. ‘Green Comet’ is quick maturing with large and tightly formed heads. ‘Decathlon’ is a vigorous grower that resists summer heat, and does well on less-fertile soils. ‘Belstar’ and ‘Ironman’ are later-maturing in late summer and into autumn from successional sowings and both of these stand well without running to flower. ‘Tenderstem’, and the similar ‘Tendergreen’, are very fast to mature with small spears, not like the domed heads of the other varieties mentioned.

 

Sowing

 

Broccoli is not completely hardy and the plants can be damaged by frost so it is not sown until April or early May. In the milder parts of the country, the seeds can be sown in early April and up to one month later in the colder inland areas. If frost protection in the form of low polythene tunnels, or horticultural fleece covering, can be given, sowing can start a couple of weeks earlier. Sow batches of seeds in succession about three or four weeks apart to July to spread out the cropping.

Calabrese transplants very badly and has a tendency to ‘button’ out with the least set-back, such as transplanting or running dry. When this happens the flower bud may develop to only a couple of centimetres across. To prevent this problem, the seeds are best sown directly where the crop is to mature. Sow three seeds at each station, each group about 30 to 40 centimetres apart.

Separate each of these seeds by a few centimetres in a row or a triangle. Sowing three seeds is an insurance against failure to germinate because it is near-impossible to move plants into gaps, as would be easily possible with cabbage. Be careful about snail-damage because a single snail can devour several groups of tiny seedlings in a single night.

When the little plants are growing well at about ten centimetres tall, each station can be reduced to one plant, snipping off the stem just below the seed leaves, and not pulling them out because of potential damage to the roots of the remaining plant.

Seeds can be sown in pots in the greenhouse in March for planting out in April. Raised in a greenhouse, two or three seeds should be sown per small pot and the plants well watered before being taken out of the pots.

 

Aftercare

 

Warm weather or drought can cause buttoning and it is imperative to keep the soil moist. This may require rootball watering, especially during very warm weather or breezy sunny weather when the plants can dry out quickly. If the leaves are seen to wilt, there is a good chance that they will prematurely form a small flower head. Calabrese often does not hold in tight bud for very long if the weather is warm, and the soil dry, and the tendency is for the flower buds to continue to develop and flower.

 

Picking

 

Harvesting of the crop is usually about ten to twelve weeks after sowing, or a bit longer later in the year. Pick the main bud by cutting it but leave the plant in the ground. Very often, several smaller side-buds will then form and can be picked a few weeks later. Pick the broccoli heads when ready, as they will not stand long and tend to become tough and stringy. They freeze well, or give them away to friends. Successional sowing helps to spread out harvesting.

 

Troubles

 

Calabrese is a cabbage family plant and may suffer most of the pests and diseases of cabbage and cauliflower, but because it is quick-growing, it generally avoids most troubles. The principal problems are caterpillars and greenflies. It is often easy to remove butterfly egg batches by hand, but cabbage moth caterpillars can get into the flower head. If this is a problem, horticultural fleece can be used to exclude the adult moths. This pest is more common in very sheltered gardens. Given the short maturing life of the crop, it is not usual to use any insecticide but derris or natural pyrethrins, which break down within one day, could be used if there is a greenfly attack.

 

The globe artichoke is a member of the Compositae, the daisy family, and it is closely related to the thistle. The edible part of the plant is the immature flower bud. If these buds, globular in shape, are not harvested, large bluish thistle-like flower heads develop. The edible portion of the globe artichoke is composed of the fleshy bases of the tiny bunched florets, and the base to which the florets are attached, known as the ‘heart’. The top part of the florets is hairy and can become spiny, sometimes known as the ‘choke’, and cannot be eaten.

Not known as a wild plant, the globe artichoke, Cynara scolymus, may have been derived from the cardoon, Cynara cardunculus. The globe artichoke has been grown since before Roman times and was grown in Northern Europe in the sixteenth century, reputed at that period to have aphrodisiac properties. It has been associated with Brittany for five centuries and it thrives in that climate of mild winters and not-too-hot summers. It can be killed by hard frost, especially on heavy soils. Although it is not much grown as a vegetable, it can easily be fitted into a perennial border or a mixed border, where its flowers are decorative. The plants last for several years and grow quite large and broad but crop best in their first few years, and should be replanted every few years with new plants coming on.

 

Cooking globe artichokes

 

Globe artichokes are cooked by boiling or steaming in water for about half an hour, or by microwaving for a few minutes. The whole head less the stem base is cooked and the classic way to eat globe artichokes is to peel away the scales, one by one, nibbling off the tiny bit of some tissue at the base, eventually arriving at the choke which is removed to reveal the succulent heart. These hearts can be taken from cooked artichokes and used as an ingredient in a range of recipes and it is the hearts that are pickled and tinned. Artichokes are a good source of potassium and reputed to have beneficial effects on digestion and liver function.

 

Growing artichokes

 

Site and soil

 

Globe artichokes, like their thistle relatives, like well-drained fertile soil that borders on being light. If the soil is too light, the plants will make small heads so plenty of rich organic material should be added.

 

Sowing

 

Globe artichokes can be raised easily from seeds sown in spring, grown in rich ground, in seed rows about forty centimetres apart. Most gardens will not require more than a few plants, perhaps even just one.

 

Varieties

 

‘Green Globe’ is the standard variety, although others may be offered by some seed companies.

 

Planting

 

Transplant the well-developed young plants to final positions the following autumn or spring. It is possible to split existing plants into separate crowns, each of which can become a new plant. Space the plants about ninety centimetres apart each way, or the same from other plants.

 

Picking

 

Strong young plants may produce small globes in their first autumn but generally the first globes will be cut in the second summer. Wait until the flower bud has sized up but not too long or its gets too coarse and will eventually open the flower.

 

Pests and diseases

 

Globe artichokes are more or less trouble-free. Snails often attack the soft leaves and can destroy the emerging flower stems. The plants, being evergreen, often become a haven for snails and it is not a bad idea to cut away all the leaves in early autumn to reduce this problem.

 

Peas are one of the most popular vegetables, very nutritious, pleasant to eat and versatile in cookery. Fresh peas from the garden are incomparably better than any peas that can be bought, fresh, dried or frozen in the shops. It is not an exaggeration to state that garden peas have a different flavour, a much sweeter fuller flavour. The remarkable thing is that this flavor is not lost in home-frozen peas, so disregard those television adverts about two hours to freezing, garden peas fresh or frozen are way ahead of the rest. Try it yourself and see!

 

Site and soil

 

Peas need an open position in full sunshine. They like open soil that has plenty of air between the crumbs. Air is essential for the bacteria that live on the roots of the pea plant to thrive. The bacteria pass nitrogen to the pea plant in return for sugars. The soil should be neutral or slightly limy, a requirement of most vegetables, and lime status should be adjusted with lime if necessary. Peas like soil that does not dry out. The ideal is a silty loam, soft and moist, but not heavy. Well-rotted compost added to light soil improves it and it also helps to open up heavy clay soils. If soil conditions are right, peas are very easy and very successful.

 

Varieties

 

There are two main types of peas – ordinary peas and ‘eat-all’ mangetout types. Ordinary peas include petit pois types, while mangetout or pod peas include snap peas, also sometimes called sugar pod peas. Any of these kinds can be grown in the home garden. The ordinary peas are either round-seeded varieties, which are hardier and can be sown very early, even in autumn in some cases, or wrinkle-seeded kinds which are better croppers. A standard early variety is ‘Feltham First’, round-seeded, now largely superceded by ‘Fortune’ also round-seeded, with excellent flavour. ‘Avola’ is another new round-seeded variety of reputed good flavour.

Some wrinkle-seeded kinds are earlier than others and a popular variety is ‘Early Onward’. ‘Kelvedon Wonder’ is another of these. ‘Onward’ and ‘Hurst Greenshaft’ are standard varieties to follow the early kinds. Late-cropping ‘Cavalier’ and ‘Rondo’ are highly regarded as heavy croppers. ‘Ambassador’ is a good maincrop variety that has good resistance to mildew and pea wilt diseases. Semi-leafless varieties, with leaves turned to tendrils, are more self-supporting and some are very highly regarded, such as ‘Greensage’. ‘Waverex’ is a popular petit pois variety.

Most mangetout varieties are quite tall, some capable of reaching over head-height. This makes them awkward to support and to pick. ‘Dwarf Sweet Green’ is small in size with typical flat mangetout pods while ‘Oregon Sugar Pod’ is a very popular variety, taller with flat pods. ‘Sugar Snap’ has round snap pea pods but it is a tall grower.

 

Sowing

 

Peas are normally sown directly where they are to grow to maturity, but they can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse early to bring on plants for planting out. Otherwise sow early kinds in March, second sowing in April, third sowing in May and a late sowing using early varieties in June or even into early July.

Cultivate the soil well and leave it soft and open. There is generally no need to apply any fertiliser before peas if the ground is fertile and has been fertilised for previous crops and organic material added in previous years. Make a shallow drill about the width of a spade-head and 5cm deep. Scatter pea seeds along the drill or space them evenly about 20 or 30 peas per metre of row in single or double lines. Cover back with soil using a rake to draw it over them. Do not sow in wet ground or poorly cultivated soil, wait a week or two until it dries. Peas tend to rot in cold, wet soil.

 

Aftercare

 

Watch for signs of the pea seeds emerging and look out for damage by birds, especially pigeons and crows. Snails may have a nibble too, and pea and bean weevils can attack and eat out notches when the plants are still very small.

As soon as the pea plants are finger-length, weed the rows carefully, and place the support material in position. This is usually bushy pea twigs of any kind of deciduous shrubs or tree – birch being very suitable – that have been saved from pruning in previous months, or plastic or wire netting supported by posts can be used. The pea plants begin to produce tendrils and climb when they are about pencil length.

If a crop of peas suffers a setback due to cold wet weather or dry hot weather, they tend to stop growing, flower and produce fewer pods. Try to ensure there is no interruption to nice steady and rapid growth, by having the soil correctly prepared and by watering during dry spells. Watering around flowering time is especially important to prevent the flowers ‘running off’ without setting, and again as the pods begin to swell.

 

Harvesting and storage

 

Peas can be picked as soon as they are bigger enough. Pick the first pods while the peas are still relatively small – these are delicious. But this early picking also helps to extend flowering and cropping by preventing seed setting. Once a few pods set the plant puts all its energy into swelling these. When picking try to make sure that all the pod that have reached readiness are picked. Then into the fridge straightaway to chill them until they are shelled and eaten or frozen. And this should take place as soon as possible after picking. They only need a flash of steam to cook and can be eaten raw too.

 

Pests and diseases

 

Peas are affected by a range of pests, including birds and insects, and some diseases such as powdery mildew and pea wilt. Sowing in wet ground can cause rotting and few, if any, plants come up. Pea wilt and powdery mildew can be problematic on light soil and in a dry summer. Greenflies might appear, though usually not in significant numbers and the normal predators are enough to deal with them. Pigeons can be the worst pest, a single bird grazing an entire row of peas in the hours after dawn.

 

Tarragon is among the most highly regarded of culinary herbs, a real aristocrat. There is only one species, Artemisia dracunculus, but two distinct kinds have been selected. French tarragon appears to be a variant form of the species with better flavour and less coarse foliage than the ordinary Russian kind. The french for tarragon is ‘estragon’, the name given by Samuel Beckett to one of the characters in his play ‘Waiting for Godot’, while the other is Vladimir, a russian!

French tarragon sets little or no seed and is grown from divisions, whereas the russian kind is grown from seed. Apparently, the russian kind improves in flavour as the plant ages, so it may simply be a matter of waiting. Though, as with any seed-raised plant, there is likely to be a lot of variation.

Tarragon is easy to grow. It needs only a reasonable, well-drained soil in any sunny spot. It can be grown with other plants in a flower bed or border, given a little room to itself as it is not a great competitor.

 

Cooking Tarragon

 

Narrow pointed, dark-green leaves distinguish this aromatic herb of distinctive aniseed flavour.

There are two main kinds, and the French version is far superior in flavour and texture to the Russian variation. Tarragon is widely used in classic French cooking for a variety of dishes including chicken, fish and vegetables as well as many sauces.

Care should be taken when using tarragon since its assertiveness can easily dominate other flavours.

 

Growing Tarragon

 

Varieties

 

The french variety has better flavour. The russian kind, raised from seed, may be satisfactory too, but the results may be variable.

 

Planting

 

Tarragon can be planted  during October or March in the open ground, using divisions from existing plants – it forms underground stems – or a small plant purchased. One plant is usually enough for most household requirements, especially as it spreads to make a sizeable clump.

 

Weeding

 

Keep tarragon free of weeds. It has light foliage and weeds sometimes get into the clump of roots.

 

Watering

 

It does not need watering generally but may be somewhat stunted in very dry soil.

Feeding:  No feeding is necessary.

Harvesting:   Pick the leafy stems for use as soon as they are long enough, usually from June to September or even October. It can also be potted up and grown in a greenhouse to extend the season.

 

The botanical name for sweet basil is Ocimum basilicum, the latter part meaning ‘princely’ and this is a prince of herbs. It is highly valued for its sweet but distinctively spicy flavour. It was known to the ancients and originally came from tropical Asia. Being of tropical origin, it is not happy outdoors in this country and must be grown under protection of a greenhouse or conservatory. It does grow outside but always looks pretty miserable because the temperatures are not high enough.

On the other hand, it is easy to grow in a greenhouse, either in a pot or in the open soil. The plants make neat bushy growth. Apart from the sweet basil, the holy basil, Ocimum tenuiflorum, has become available as seeds in recent years. Used in eastern, especially Thai, cookery, it has a somewhat different flavour from pointed leaves covered with fine hairs. It makes a bigger, more vigorous plant.

 

Sowing

 

 Basil is grown from seed sown each year in late spring. It can be sown later too because it develops very quickly. The seeds like warm conditions for germination and that is the reason for not sowing too early. Basil reacts badly to cold, wet compost and this is often a reason for lack of success. In the right conditions, the seeds germinate within a few days. They should be pricked out almost immediately into small pots and later moved on into larger pots, or planted out in the greenhouse soil.

 

Growing

 

 Keep basil growing strongly. Do not over-water until the weather warms up in late spring or early summer. Wait until growth begins, when it does keep the compost nicely moist. Feeding should be carried out for plants in pots every two weeks using a dilute liquid plant food. In the open soil, it will not need liquid feeding if the soil is already rich. It likes plenty of organic matter in the soil and an open structure.

 

Picking

 

When the required number of plants have been pricked out, the seed tray with surplus seedlings can be left as it is, but watered and liquid fed to make the seedlings grow as a group. This will give a first pick within a few weeks, simply cutting the tops of the little plants. As the other plants start to make some size, they can have the tips of the shoots picked off with two to four leaves and these tips used. This technique helps to keep the plants small and bushy, and delays flowering. Later the leaves can be used as required. When the plants are on the point of flowering, the leaves can be picked off for freezing, which is an excellent way to preserve the delicate flavour of basil.

 

The botanical name for sage – salvia –  refers to the use of this plant for external healing. For hundreds of years, probably longer, sage has been a standard kitchen herb, one of the old reliables -parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme. It is native to southern Europe but grows well in northern climates too. It is a shrubby plant, not woody enough to be a shrub yet having a woody base to its stems. It is very easy to grow and because it is a decorative plant in its own right, it need not be relegated to the vegetable garden.

A sage bush can be found a slot near the edge of a bed, or tumbling over a low retaining wall. The latter location is ideal because it likes good drainage and can die out in heavy, wet ground. Its heritage from the Mediterranean dictates that  it also needs full sunlight. It flowers in June and July with dark blue-violet flowers. These are quite pretty and bear out the plant’s ornamental credentials. The flowers are throated and tubular, typical of the mint family, of which it is a member along with other herbs such as mint and thyme.

 

Cooking sage

 

Sage has anti-microbial action, relaxes the stomach muscles and aids digestion. It contains anti-oxidants which reduces cancer risk. It is a very versatile herb and may be used with a lot of different foods. Roughly chopped sage goes very well fried in some butter and mixed with pasta and parmesan cheese, or deep fried and added to a nice feta cheese and lettuce salad.

 

Growing sage

 

Sowing

 

Sage is easily grown for seed. The culinary sage is Salvia officinalis – plain grey green leaves. The seed can be sown in late spring or early summer, directly into fine soil in an open seed bed, or in a seed tray or pot. The seedlings can be thinned in the open or pricked out to a wider spacing from a pot.

 

Planting

 

Plant at any time of year, but especially as growth is active in late spring. Plants are widely available in garden centres and these can be planted as soon as they are bought and watered to start them off. The purple-leaved form is popular as a decorative plant and it is adequate for kitchen use but not as good for flavour.

 

Picking

 

Pick the tips of the shoots, taking about four or five leaves on a sprig. These can be used even from young plants, because it gives them a good bushy shape. Continue to use it right through the year. The older leaves are usually shed in winter, but there are always some small leaves at the shoot tips.

 

Trimming

 

The bush can be lightly trimmed over after flowering, or even before flowering if the leaves are wanted.

 

Pests

 

Sage is relatively free of pests. It can be attacked by greenflies and by greenfly-like suckers. These can be simply washed off before use or if necessary use a thorough derris spray to clear the bush. Derris is plant-based and it breaks down in a day or less.

 

Marjoram is one of Europe’s essential herbs, much used in southern European cookery but not so much here. It is also is the subject of some confusion. The native plant, wild marjoram, Origanum vulgare, is usually refered to as ‘oregano’ once it is in the kitchen – but this species includes quite a variable range of plants, from  both gardening and cooking points of view. Those with a Southern provenance tend to have a far stronger  flavour than our native plants.

Sweet Marjoram, also known as knotted marjoram, Origanum marjorana, is the form that seems to be the most natural accompaniment to thyme and basil in so many dishes, particularly those including tomatoes. It has a sweet, soft flavour, similar to thyme but sweeter. It blends very well with the pungency of sage for stuffings. Pot Marjoram, Origanum onites, is also widely grown for culinary use, somewhat similar to sweet marjoram, but lacking its sweetness and fine flavour.

Both pot marjoram and wild marjoram will develop into attractive large clumps quite quickly, looking good in either a herbaceous border or a herb garden and are delightfully perfumed. Sweet marjoram has a more straggly growing habit. The flowers are very attractive to bees and hoverflies. All are perennials and are easy to grow, but sweet marjoram is not hardy and will only survive a winter in a very sheltered situation or when grown under protection.

Although both pot and wild marjoram usually retain some leaves throughout an Irish winter, a supply of better quality fresh leaves during the colder months is assured by having one or two plants inside. Marjoram will grow quite well in a pot on a windowsill, but its vigorous growth will mean that after six months it should either be potted on, or planted out.

 

Propagation

 

Propagation can be achieved from seed, cuttings or division. Marjorams grow best in a sunny, open situation on well-drained fertile soil. They are almost free of significant pest or disease problems, and will require almost no attention other than to cut them back after flowering. It is advisable to lift a clump after two or three years, divide and replant.

The ornamental forms of marjoram are of little culinary interest, although golden marjoram Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’, which lends such a cheerful, sunny hue to a garden bed, has leaves of a delicate flavour and texture which are attractive as a garnish. A particularly striking visual effect can be obtained using a mass of golden marjoram and a green leaved marjoram in a herb bed – but in this case it is best to keep the plants well clipped to maintain the maximum colour contrast.

For culinary use the leaves of marjoram are stripped from the stem, and are generally best added shortly before cooking is completed. The flowers (or knots – from which sweet marjoram derives its other common name) can be used as a visual and flavoured addition to salads.

 

Garlic has become a standard item in many dishes in recent years as more people have become fans of this unique herb. Although it is used in relatively small quantities, it can significantly influence the flavour of a dish. It has excellent health enhancing properties being especially valuable for blood and heart health. It is best planted in autumn and nothing tastes as good as freshly lifted garlic.

 

Site and soil

 

Garlic likes a well-drained soil in a sunny position, like all members of the onion family. It is planted in autumn, or early spring, so that it can be exposed to a couple of months of cool weather. It is hardy, only suffering some tip dieback in very frosty times. Garlic has been cultivated for over five thousand years, its cultivation in lost in history. It does not appear as a native plant anywhere and it is thought to have been cultivated for so long that it only exists in its cultivated form. When choosing a spot for garlic, try to avoid any ground that has had onions in recent years, at least if the onions have suffered from onion white rot disease of the roots.

Before planting, the ground can have sizeable quantities of very well rotted manure or compost added. This ought to be so well rotted that it is just dark humus with little or no sign  of the plant material from which it was derived. Garlic likes quite rich feeding and although it must have well-drained soil, it likes to have a good supply of moisture and tends to stop growing if it is too dry. Garlic prefers a limy soil, as most vegetables do, and a garden on acid soil will need to be limed every few years to reduce acidity.

 

Varieties

 

Most of the garlic grown in gardens is taken from the ordinary garlic in shops, but garden centres sometimes offer garlic for planting and some of the mail order seed houses offer a range of varieties. Some of these varieties are virus-free which improves the plant’s performance. ‘Germidour’ is a virus-free variety for autumn planting. ‘Messidrome’ has large pinkish bulbs for planting in autumn or winter. ‘Sultop’ is a French garlic variety with pink cloves and it is planted in early spring. ‘White Pearl’ is considered free of viruses and eelworm, and is white-rot resistant. Although these named varieties sometimes appear, mostly garlic bulbs offered for sale are not named even though they may be one of these varieties. Elephant garlic is sometimes also offered and this is really a type of leek more than true garlic. The flavour is garlicky but milder than true garlic, but the bulbs and cloves arr much larger and it is grown in the same way.

 

Planting

 

Garlic is planted from the cloves broken out of the bulbs. A bulb might have six to twelve cloves. The bigger ones are best for planting because the smaller ones might only grow enough to make a round, undivided bulb. These are perfectly useable but the yield is low. If, however, these ‘rounds’ are kept over to the following autumn and planted, they will give very large bulbs, divided into cloves, the following year.

Decide on the number of bulbs that you would like to have – to use from July until about February. Buy enough bulbs to allow for about six cloves of planting size. They need to be spaced about twenty centimetres apart. They are often planted more closely but there is a better chance of large bulbs at the wider spacing. The rows can be thirty centimetres apart or fifty centimetres from any kind of tall shading vegetables.

Dig the soil over before planting and then pat it back firmly with the back of a spade but do not pack it tight. Plant garlic ten centimetres deep in light soil, about half that in heavier soil. The plants which flower usually produce a few, or many, small bulbils in the flower head. These can be planted and will make ‘rounds’ and bulbs in the second year. Or these can be planted in  scattered handfuls to be grown as ‘green garlic’ or garlic greens.

 

Aftercare

 

Garlic sprouts fairly quickly and the green shoots will show about ground. Their growth over the winter period will depend on the weather. Maintain complete freedom from weeds as garlic is a poor competitor, resulting in small bulbs. In spring and early summer, the plants will need watering during any dry spell of more than a few days. They need a well-drained soil but the risk is that they dry out. If this happens, the plants begin bulbing up prematurely and soon stop growing and wither.

This is a big risk with spring planting, and if spring planting is done, it is best to plant early, in February typically. The advantage of spring planting is that the bulbs have less time to spend in storage and last longer. But generally, better results come from autumn planting. Although many of the plants may produce a flower head, and these can be taken off to improve the size of the bulbs.

 

Harvesting and storage

 

When the tops of the garlic plants yellow past halfway, it is time to harvest them. This may happen prematurely because of drought or white rot disease, and the resultant bulbs will be small in both instances. Ideally, the plants should fade gradually – entering summer dormancy, then the best results are obtained. Do not water once the tops begin to yellow as this can reduce the storage quality or the bulbs. Ideally, the lifted bulbs should be of good size with intact skins, not split by over swelling. Loosen the bulbs in the soil with a fork and pull them out.

They are best not left on the soil surface as sunlight can coarser the fine flavour and dampness can cause re-sprouting which renders them useless for storing. The lifted bulbs should be placed in a warm place out of the sunlight to ‘cure’, that is to go fully dormant. The skins will dry out and the outer layer can be rubbed off to leave clean bulbs. These are then stored, being careful at all times not to bruise them, in cool place and they make last without shrivelling for as much as eight months, but this depends on variety, storage and handling. The bulbs can be braided, or simply tied in bunches or in small net bags.

Garlic greens, grown from the bulbils or small cloves, and planted in autumn or early spring, make small plants that look like scallions. These can be lifted and used, for their full garlic flavour, in stir-fries and other dishes when large enough.

 

Pests and diseases

 

The main trouble with garlic is virus disease. Since it is propagated solely by bulbs, the virus carries. Some stocks are cleaned up or relatively resistant but it is common to see streaking and discoloration in the foliage. White rot of onions affects garlic, sometimes rotting the bulbs but mostly causing root rots that affect the bulb development. Use the biggest bulbs and the biggest cloves at planting.

 

Chives are grown as flavouring, as a herb, not as a vegetable in their own right. The plant consists of slender leaves and stem and a narrow bulbous root. Allium schoenprasum is a perennial species, unlike the commonly grown leeks and onions to which it is related, being a member of the allium or onion family. In winter the top of the plants withers away but soon begins to re-emerge in late winter and early spring. Sometimes the tips of the emerging new leaves gets touched with frost. Not long after the leaves have emerged the flowers are produced  and these are decorative enough to merit growing in a flower bed or border, at the front because this is a small plant. The purple pink flowers are pretty and can be used as garnish and in salads. Native to mountainous regions across Europe and Asia, it is thought that chives have been used as a flavouring from ancient times.

 

Cooking chives

 

The mild onion flavour of chives is ideal for imparting a touch of flavour without overpowering light dishes, such as salads, soups and omelettes. It is usually added late in the cooking and it is used fresh in salads and as garnish. Like other members of the onion family, chives contain useful amounts of potassium, and flavonoids and saponins with valuable anti-oxidant and anti-cholesterol activity.

 

Growing chives

 

Site and soil

 

Chives need full sunshine and reasonably fertile, well-drained soil that does not dry out in summer. They suffer badly in drought and become prone to disease.

 

Sowing

 

Chives are extremely easy to grow from seeds and often self-sow in gardens. Sow the seed in spring or summer in a seed bed or just in a patch of ground to grow on.

 

Transplanting

 

The plants are never treated as single plants, more a clump of plants is planted out. Existing clumps can be lifted and divided in spring, or seed-sown plants can be lifted and moved to their final positions.

 

Location

 

Chives are decorative enough to use in a flower bed or border, and they have been used as decorative edging to beds in a vegetable garden or potager.

 

Harvesting

 

Picking chives is simple, just pull away a bunch of leaves of snip them off – this can be done at any time there are leaves of sufficient length but usually before flowering.

 

Trimming

 

Cut away the flower heads of chives when finished to prevent self-sowing – the cutting back will encourage some more leaf growth.

 

Troubles

 

 Chives are generally trouble-free, but they sometimes get attacked by greenflies and rust disease is quite common, the same disease as attacks leeks, though perhaps a different strain. It can cause the chives to collapse and if it occurs remove all the plant top and clear debris.

 

Decomposition of plant material is nature’s way of recycling nutrients. Decomposition is carried out by a range of creatures, such as worms and various insects, and microorganisms including fungi and bacteria. If this process is done in the presence of oxygen, the compost does not smell badly. If air is excluded, the breakdown takes place anaerobically and it smells. If the compost heap is too dry, the rate of decompostion is slowed down. If it is too wet, air is excluded, it is slowed down and it smells.

A compost heap or bin simply faciliates the natural process of decompostion. Any plant material, green or withered, begins decomposition immeditately it is taken off a living plant and this process will take place whether it is in a heap or not. Placing it in a heap helps to keep it moist and to keep it tidy and available for use when rotted.

The key to success is to have a mix of green and brown withered material. This facilitates the entry of air, whereas only green material, particuarly grass mowings, can clump together and exclude air.  It is a good idea to keep a heap of withered brown material available for mixing as the green material becomes available. It is also a good idea to have more than one, possibly three or four compost heaps on the go. One can be ready for use, one full and decomposing and one filling. 

Turning compost helps the decompostion and evens out the process through the heap of material so that it is not just composted at the centre and not at the cooler sides. Decomposing plant material heats up and this is a good sign as it helps to kill weed seeds and pests. A compost bin helps to keep the heap tidy, and moist, but can often be too small. There is no absolute need for compost additives but they can help to speed up decomposition, as can a shake of general ferlilizer. Soil can be used to cap a compost heap and keep it tidy and moist, but it tends to introduce weed seeds. 

There is no great mystery about composting … it is a natural process that happens anyway, but it can be enhanced. 

 

Pests 

 

Greenflies can infest roses and cause reduced growth. Usually they are controlled by ladybirds or other natural agents but  a heavy attack may need to be controlled with an insecticide, which are contained in most rose sprays.

Weeds

Always keep roses free of weeds. A formal rose bed must be kept weed-free, neatly edged and tidy. Straighten and trim lawn edges in March. Remove all existing weeds.

Diseases

 

 

Rose blackspot is inevitable in areas of high rainfall, especially in wet seasons. It causes black spots on the leaves, which then fall off. Some varieties are more susceptible than others but most are susceptible to some strains of the disease.

A spray of Multirose or Roseclear, or similar as the buds break in April, is essential. Spray again in May and June, and more often in a wet season, or a wet locality.

Rose mildew is generally only serious on ramblers. White chalk-like fungus grows on the leaves and stems. With susceptible varieties, spraying with Roseclear or Multirose will be necessary, starting in April. Mulching helps. Plant climbers instead of ramblers on walls.

Rose rust is an occasional problem but serious in some areas when it does occur. Rusty spots appear on the underside of the leaves. Spray with Dithane or Liquid Copper when the disease is first seen.

 

In March each year, bush roses should be given an application of 70 grams per square metre of general fertiliser, or rose fertiliser such as Goulding’s Rose Food, Rose Plus, Special Rose Fertiliser or Toprose.

Climbers, ramblers and shrub roses should get the same – especially in the early years after planting, and following periods of poor growth, or disease attack. Vigorous types may not need any fertiliser in some years.

 

Rosa ‘Albertine’

 

A dressing of rotted manure, compost, shredded bark or peat, in April/May encourages good growth and conserves vital moisture, but too much manure can cause vigorous soft growth that is susceptible to leaf diseases. Do not use heavy organic mulches on heavy soil as it can leave the ground too wet and result in poor growth. Bush roses can be given a further 35 grams of rose fertilizer per bush, in early July, to encourage late flowering.